Surfing is a way of life. The author, Grégory Maubé, has been surfing since the age of four (he is now twenty-seven). He gives us an inside look at the day-to-day of the sport: the language, the stars, the surfing sites, the visceral nomadism - intellectual and geographical - the poetry, the search for the Grail (the perfect wave), the cult films and the mythical champions. from Duke and the sport's Hawaiian pioneers to today's over-publicised film stars ... it's all here. Spectacular photos by Sylvain Cazenave, the signature of this unique world.
Data pubblicazione
01/10/2004